A sampling of KNEAD doughnuts.
Article and photos by Eric Hurwitz. Articlecreated on 1/11/18.
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The homepage headline on the KNEAD Doughnuts web site states,"Good Doughnuts. Made Well." A better descriptionwould be "Great Doughnuts. Made Incredibly Well."
Taking a classic, timeless concept to the next level, KNEAD Doughnutsfavors a lengthy process to create old-fashioned, cake andbrioche-style doughnuts that simultaneously celebrate the artisan foodmovement of the 21st century while offering an authentic old-fashioneddoughnut taste from yesteryear. No just-add-water to a lifelessdoughnut mixhere, no weird flavors, no artificial ingredients, and no crazytoppings that have no meaningful relation to the actual doughnut.Instead, KNEAD Doughnuts uses justseven simple, foundational ingredients and natural flavors to createthe sweetmagic.
On its own, just walking into KNEAD Doughnuts suggests somethingdifferent than the typical doughnut shop. Located in a historic downtownbuilding dating back to 1875 that was later remodeled for a brokeragefirm, KNEAD Doughnuts has carried on the tradition of making dough,albeit in a different way from its wealth management predecessor.
KNEADDoughnuts storefront.KNEAD Doughnuts features at least a baker's dozen of wonderful designflourisheswith a historic archway entrance, brass light fixture above, statelybrick andconcrete design, and inside, handsome wood floors, high-vaultedceilings, tall old-style windows, gold trimmings made from brass,bright white walls, wooden block tables, thin hanging lights, abeautiful old-style analog wall clock, a large window looking into thespotlesskitchen and, of course, an expansive doughnut display case at the frontof the counter.
At that counter, KNEAD employees like Camille Champ constantly bringout freshly-baked doughnuts...
Colleen Champ, a senior at Johnson and Wales University andemployee at KNEAD Doughnuts, brings out fresh doughnuts.The doughnut selection goes beyond a baker's dozen, however,starting with both a permanent and rotating seasonal display ofold-fashioned and creative kinds like vanilla-glazed made with realvanilla bean, chocolate chip cookie, and spiced chai. The cakedoughnuts include chocolate, chocolate peanut butter and"Snickerdoodle." The brioche doughnuts, which require a 24-hourfermentationprocess to bring out rich flavors, include vanilla glazed, cinnamonroll, passion fruit, brown butter pecan and cranberry pecan crumble.
For fans of the filled doughnut, Knead does a wonderful job with peanutbutter and jelly, plain jelly, and Boston Cream. The fritters areout-of-this-world delicious like the raspberry fritter with choppedbriocheformed together with raspberry and topped with a raspberry glazed.
Raspberry fritter from KNEAD Doughnuts.
Add some highly professional, friendly front and back end ofthe bakery employees to create the doughnuts and serve the customersmakes the overall experience just that much sweeter. This is a first-class operation in every aspect.
KNEAD Doughnuts opened on Dec. 21, 2016 withits name derived from a double-meaning defining the process of forminga dough product and also needing it for consumption.With a memorable business name and an approach to doughnut-making thattruly taps into the art and science of this craft, KNEADDoughnuts hasalready built a huge, faithful following despite being located on anarrow, hidden downtown street where parking is hard to find. Lastrina,Mackey and Gibb knew, however, that Providence had a void in thegrowing artisan doughnut industry and decided to bring their uniquework experiences to open KNEAD. Lastrina, a Johnson and WalesUniversity graduate with a degree in hotel and restaurant management,worked 13 years as a general manager at Seven Stars Bakery inProvidence. Gibb and Mackey co-founded Bolt Coffee Company inProvidence. Mackey serves as a coffee importer for Olam SpecialtyCoffee in downtown Providence. He brings an added advantage to KNEAD Doughnutsas a trained roaster, and even travels to Central America annually tofind the best harvest as he meets with local farmers."It's definitely an extreme advantage having Todd's (coffeeexpertise,)" smiled Lastrina.With American staples in doughnuts and coffee being served atit* highest quality, business has boomed with, on its best days, up to2,500 doughnuts sold. Even on Sunday when Providence oddly takes on thelook and feel of a small town with not much open, KNEAD has prospered-- it is, in fact, their best day for selling doughnuts. Customersarrive constantly, often in groups to order a variety of doughnuts toshare.
"It's odd, but on Saturday and Sunday, Providence is very sleepy withnot a lot going on," said Lastrina, a Peterborugh, N.H., native nowliving in Seekonk, Mass. We were thinking initially that we should stayclosed on Sundays. Thank goodness we didn't. It's our busiest day.There's not an empty seat here."
Lastrina knows, however, that the successful business has itslimitations with a need to go beyond the current 2,000 sq. ft.environs. Consequently, he will soon be opening a second KNEADDoughnuts on 135 Elmgrove St. in Providence, just outside WaylandSquare. The east side location will feature more seating and betterparking to complement the existing and thriving flagship KNEAD bakeryand doughnut-making facility.
KNEAD Doughtnuts has come a long way since taking over a formerlyboarded-upbuilding with no electricity and no gas. The building has not only beenrestored, but also the reality of what a real doughnut should tastelike.
"We wanted to be conscious of putting out a timeless product," saidLastrina. "We didn't want to get caught up in the 'next big thing.'You'll remember that cupcakes were big and then fizzled out after fiveyears.. Doughnuts have withstood the test of time, but we are not aboutmaking crazy favors. We make about 16 types of doughnuts a day anddo everything from scratch... We just focus on a few things and don'ttry to be everything to everybody. We just focus on making gooddoughnuts."
No, make that great doughnuts!
KNEAD Doughnuts islocated at 32 Custom House St. in Providence, RI. Tel. (401)865-6622. Website: http://www.kneaddoughnuts.com.Facebook fan page: https://www.facebook.com/KNEAD-Doughnuts-1190809734294544/.Twitter page: http://www.twitter.com/kneaddoughnuts
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